SKU: 75752334702

HMKL - Zagger 38 B1 #Aburi Salmon(Glow)

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Description

HMKL - Zagger 38 B1 #Aburi Salmon(Glow)HMKL Zagger 38 B1 Mehr als 40 Jahre Erfahrung im Kderbau!!! Der Zagger 38 ist der kleine Bruder (Downsizing) des Zagger 50 oder Zagger 65 der Edelkderschmiede HMKL um Kazuma Izumi aus Japan. Dieser Premium Hersteller ist nicht nur im Forellenbereich anzutreffen. Auch Barsch, Zander und Co. lieben die Kder des Herstellers. Hinter jedem HMKL Wobbler steckt eine lange und intensive Entwicklungsphase. Designer Kazuma Izumi, einer der bekanntesten und am

HMKL - Zagger 38 B1

Mehr als 40 Jahre Erfahrung im Köderbau!!!

Der Zagger 38 ist der kleine Bruder (Downsizing) des Zagger 50 oder Zagger 65 der Edelköderschmiede HMKL um Kazuma-Izumi aus Japan. Dieser Premium-Hersteller ist nicht nur im Forellenbereich anzutreffen. Auch Barsch, Zander und Co. lieben die Köder des Herstellers.

Hinter jedem HMKL Wobbler  steckt eine lange und intensive Entwicklungsphase. Designer Kazuma-Izumi, einer der bekanntesten und am längsten aktiven Angler Japans, steckt seine ganze Erfahrung und Energie in die Perfektionierung seiner Kunstköder. Daraus resultierend verfügen alle HMKL Wobbler über extrem gute Laufeigenschaften, die diese Köder zu wahren Fanggaranten machen.

HMKL legt bei all seinen Hardbaits außerdem sehr viel Wert auf naturgetreue Farbdekore und Köderformen. So werden bei der Produktion der Wobbler häufig Perleffekt-Lackierungen oder so genannte, innen verbaute „Mylar Blades“, also reflektierende Hologrammfolien, verwendet. Der volle Effekt zeigt sich, wenn man die Köder im Licht hin und her bewegt und natürlich in erster Linie anhand der Fangerfolge im Wasser, weswegen ich diese Köder in den Onlineshop aufgenommen habe.

 

Der HMKL - Zagger 38 B1 wurde speziel für den Einsatz am Gewässerboden entwickelt und hier gilt die Devise, weniger ist manchmal mehr. Gerade vorsichtige oder passive Fische gehören zur Beute des Zagger 38 B1.

Ein Gewicht aus Tungsten an der Tauchschaufel sorgt für schnelles Absinken (FS - Fast Sinking) des Köders. Die Verwendung von Tungsten beim Gewicht an der Tauchschaufel sorgt für enorm gute Erkennung des Gewässergrunds. Tungsten ist außerdem bei gleichem Gewicht deutlich kleiner als Blei und ungiftig. Dieses Gewicht sorgt außerdem für eine permanente Position des Köders im 45° Winkel. Dies sorgt neben einer sehr guten Bissausbeute für eine reduzierte Hängergefahr, da die Haken vom Gewässerboden abgehoben werden.

Mit seiner Länge von 38mm und einem Gewicht von 2,8g passt er perfekt ins Beuteschema vieler Raubfische.

Als Führungstechnik des Zagger 38 B1 hat sich das sogenannte " Bottom Bumping" durchgesetzt. Hierbei lässt man den Köder bis zum Grund sinken (Schnur leicht gespannt halten!). Dann wird der Köder leicht über die Rutenspitze angehoben oder 1-2 Kurbelumdrehungen gemacht und anschließend lässt man den Köder wieder bis zum Grund absinken, wo er sich aufstellt. Genau in dieser Phase kommen die meisten Bisse. Daher die Pausen nicht zur kurz ausfallen lassen. 

"Langsame Bewegung mit Pausen ist hier der Schlüssel zum Erfolg", denn Forellen reagieren oft auf die Absinkphase ( absinkende Pellets)  als auf die eigentliche Bewegung des Köders.

Alternativ kann man den Zagger 38 B1 auch mit ganz langsamer Führung über den Boden schleifen. Hierbei wird viel "Staub" aufgewirbelt, was ebenfalls einen Reiz auf Forellen auslöst. Dahier wird ein flüchtendes Beutetier imitiert, wie z.B. kleine Krebse oder Fische. Auch hier sollte man ab und an mal kleinere Pause einbauen.

Kurz zusammengefasst: Der Zagger 38 B1 sollte langsam, bodennah und mit viel Gefühl gefischt werden. Denn der Biss kommt oft genau dann, wenn du gerade nichts machst. Hektische Bewegungen oder eine zu schnelle Führung mag der Zagger 38 B1 nicht. 

 

Egal wo der Fisch sich aufhält – der HMKL ZAGGER kommt hin!

 

Wenn Ihr mehr über verschiedene Wobblertypen und Führungstechniken erfahren wollt, da klickt einfach HIER.

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SKU: 75752334702

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4.7 ★★★★★
Based on 1652 reviews
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Product Reviews
J
Verified Purchase
J feathers
Charlottesville, US
★★★★★ 5
Works great. Very happy
Size: 4 oz Kit, Size: 4 oz Kit
This stuff was amazing. It literally is dye i used gloves and put it on my jeep bumpers, trim that was black my running boards and top half of jeep.. looks brand new.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 1, 2026
M
Verified Purchase
morey smith
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
Easy to apply.
Size: 4 Oz
Product did a great job renewing my plastic house shutters. It brought back the deep rich color and made them look better the new.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 27, 2026
S
Verified Purchase
Stuart R. Stengel
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 5
Great Stuff
Size: 120 ML
Product is good, Easy to spread for the most part. The only complaint I would give it is that the applicators do not hole up after several applications, I would suggest using a microfiber cloth to apply.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 1, 2026
T
Teresa Wilson
Draper, US
★★★★★ 5
Restored My Trim Instantly
Size: 120 ML
I used this plastic restorer on the faded trim around my SUV, and the difference was immediate. The dull gray plastic turned back to a rich black color within minutes. It spreads evenly and doesn’t leave greasy streaks behind. After a few weeks and several rainy days, the finish still looks great. My car honestly looks years newer now.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2026
E
Verified Purchase
Eric J. Jenislawski
Fort Morgan, US
★★★★★ 5
Great result, exceptional value, and easy, forgiving application.
Size: TRIM COAT KIT
I am thoroughly pleased with the results of this product, and the application was easier than I expected. Outstanding stuff. I am writing a longer review in case it helps people who are unsure about a "once and done" product that calls itself permanent. It's not hard to apply. It is forgiving and there's time to even it out. But here are some things to anticipate. My use case: I used Cerakote to restore the plastic trim on a used 2014 black Dodge Challenger that had been repainted but the plastic trim was original and it had been kept outside by the prior owner, so the contrast between the new paint and faded trim was noticeable. The trim was originally a deep, dark gray (it is never as black as the paint). It had faded to a medium-gray in many places: running boards on the side beneath the door, below the read bumper (which were also somewhat worn from debris), around the tail lights, and the plastic piece beneath the windshield wipers between the windshield and the hood. These were all looking weathered. The trim was very oxidized in some places, chalky grey near the hood and around the back bumper. The plastic around the tail lights also had light streaks in it from where water drains down from the trunk. What else I tried before I tried Cerakote: I got middling results from Mother's Back to Black. It looked somewhat better for a week or two, and then it went back to looking as before. Not impressed. I got a tip online to try rubbing the plastic trim with a melamine magic eraser, so I did that next, and this made a significant difference. Melamine is abrasive, so be careful if you do this on your trim. I went gently, up-and-down, side-to-side and in small circles, by hand, with gentle pressure like one would with a polishing compound. By removing the oxidation, the plastic was a few shades darker in the worst spots and the streaking on the rear tail light piece was gone. The rough spots on the trim at the bottom of the car and around the wheels looked somewhat better. But it certainly did not "like new." Cerakote experience: I decided to give Cerakote a try based on the video and good reviews. Bam! Back to factory-like deep dark gray. I wish I had taken pictures. It's incredible. Fully satisfied! I had already washed the trim with Dawn dish soap. I started with the trim bone dry. You are warned everywhere that water droplets will ruin the result, so don't expect to do this process right after you wash the car unless you like to live dangerously and have compressed air to spray cracks and crevices. I was worried that application would be streaky if I didn't do it right. Not so. It is forgiving. Here's what I learned. 1) The first 20% of what you'll get out of the packet goes on heavy with the lightest touch. One packet goes a long way. The next 60% is the "normal" application. This goes on the easiest. You can really milk the last drop out of each towelette, but I didn't because the last 20% of what you can get out of it by rubbing it really hard comes out very light and is not worth the uneven application unless you have some random area you don't care much about and want to use the remainder for that. I only used 5 packets to do the whole car. When you start a new packet, the beginning is where you might want to go back later and even it out once the application gets more normal. Or better, start a new packet on a big section to spread it around well and then move to smaller trim when the towelette is less fresh. 2) You've got time to work with it and make corrections. It stayed liquid like water for at least 20 minutes in my conditions: about 80 degrees, not very humid, indirect sunlight on an 80 degree car. Don't apply in direct sun or on a hot car. The product then gets sticky as it cures, but you can still work with it during the sticky time, rubbing it in and spreading it evenly with the towelette. I did not use a microfiber to "knock down" heavy spots. I just came back around with the towelette. I think a dry microfiber might pull off too much product. When it is half-cured, it is sticky and you can buff it with the towelette at this stage to further flatten and even things out. Work in sections, one piece of trim at a time. 3) Overlaps won't show as long as you rub it all in thoroughly. I tried the overlapping parallel passes method that they recommend, and this works pretty well. I was worried that I might get a "double heavy" streak where the passes overlap but this not so unless the towelette is fresh, but this is fixable. You can do a pretty natural, casual back-and-forth motion for the most part and it comes out fine. This is NOT a super-finicky product. I made a second or third back-and-forth pass in a few areas, and used circular motion in some places where the trim was textured or a little rough from wear, and it all looked even in the end. Just rub it down into the plastic and even out the sheen while it is uncured and it's good. 4) It cures like you see it when it's still wet. It doesn't lighten up very much as it cures. It just looks a little less wet. So get it right by eye when it is wet and that's pretty much what you will still have in an hour when it is cured. 5) Don't miss a spot! You'll see it for sure if you do because the different is so dramatic. And a "second coat" is not easy or recommended. This is the only once-and-done part that you want to get right, and you have plenty of cure time to be thorough. 6) Use the folded corner of the towelette to get into small corners and edges, like where the trim meets the paint or has an inside corner or some little nook. A fresh towelette is great for getting into small areas because a feather touch applies plenty of product when the towelette is fresh. The trim now looks amazing and I am entirely satisfied. I will use Cerakote on my other vehicles. The only minor con is a strong ammonia smell when you are up close to it while it is wet. No smell once it is cured. I would definitely wear the recommended gloves while applying. As others say, you will probably drop that towelette on the ground. It's slippery when wet. Keep it folded in quarters as it comes for ease of application. Turn to a new quarter once a side gets dirty or dry and fold it inside out for four more quarters to use. Bonus, but off-label -- at your own risk: The product is not intended for the soft rubber around the windows, but I tried it there too, and it looks amazing. All I did was wash the rubber with dish soap like the trim, and I rubbed it a few times with a wet microfiber cloth to get the superficial layer of oxidized rubber off. Then I applied Cerakote. It looks great. The rubber used to be blotchy and faded. The microfiber evened this out a little. I would not use melamine on the rubber -- this made it look worse in a test section. The Cerakote made it look great: jet black, much shiner, and much more even looking. Not quite "brand new" but far better than I thought possible. I thought I might need to replace the rubber. Now it's looking great next to the jet-black new paint. This afterthought use alone was worth the money. Can you apply a second coat the next day? They don't say you can, and I don't recommend it. This is meant to be one-shot, which is why you should check to make sure you don't miss any spots. I had two areas where I tried a second coat the next day. The first was on the plastic trim between the windshield and the hood. I didn't rub this trim much with melamine beforehand so there was a lighter area (light grey originally, the worst spot) that didn't get as black as the other sections so I did it again, which helped a little, but not much. I didn't wash this area with soap beforehand because I wasn't intending to fix it until I got going. Once you put things back to black you will start noticing other faded things more. Likewise, I did a second coat on the very top of the soft rubber at the bottom of the windows (the part which faces upward and thus gets the most sun), it wasn't as shiny as the other parts, so I went over that section gently again the next day with a fresh towelette. As soon as I did it, I thought it was a mistake. This didn't go well initially because the cured coating is very hydrophobic so the new, wet, Cerakote of the second coat goes on smooth initially and then "puddles up" into little droplets a few minutes later. It doesn't want to stick to the first coat. I thought I had messed it up, but I let it cure a little until the sticky phase, and spread it out again with the towelette. It stayed that time but gathered back a little into some streaks. I spread it once more a few minutes later and it looked good. It stayed even. It looks just fine a few days later, so I think it cured OK. I hope this product last for months as advertised. Even if it doesn't I would totally do it again because the results are superior, I still have half my towelettes left, and the product is not expensive. 10/10 would do again and will recommend to everyone.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2025

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